Monday, January 9, 2012

Journey of the Boardwalk: Part 19 - Some Additions to the Bike

During the recent lelong sale at West Coast Park, I got myself a nice Biologic Arclite Rack! It is a really decent rack that is very compatible with Dahon folding bikes. The price was not too bad, thus I decided to get it. The mentality at a lelong sale is usually buy first, think later!

Biologic Arclite Rack, weights about 500 grams

As I had rode my bike to the lelong sale, the only way to bring it home is to fix it onto the bike! It fitted well with no issues, although I did remove the rack when I reached home, grease the bolts before re-fixing the rack onto the bike.

This rack is really useful! Last time, I could only bring a very limited amount of items on my bike, as I only had my Dahon Tour Bag and a rear seatpost bag. See how I brought my stuff for an overnight Desaru trip here.

Dahon Tour Bag in front, Sagarider Seatpost Clamp-on bag behind!

With the rack, I can carry odd sized items, albeit with some creativity and a nice long bungee cord. Besides bringing flat items like a bag of clothes, I have also tried carrying a plastic book shelf/divider, photo frames or other odd-shaped items that will not fit into the bags.

Another nice advantage is that I get a place to permanently fix my blue light! I used to have to fix it onto my seatpost, but it will have to be removed occasionally when the seatpost is lowered for folding, or it will be blocked when I use my rear seatpost clamp-on bag. However, with the rack, I have a new bracket on the rack that can be used to mount the blue light.



Good place to put a rear light, does not get blocked or interfere with the mounting of items onto the rack.

Instead of using the original Biologic strap that comes with the rack, I used my own bungee cord which is longer, and has hooks that can hook onto any part of the rack. The original bungee strap is too short to tie down larger items, and the fixing hook is special, such that it can only fix onto the sides, and not other places on the rack.

Can hook onto the same mounting point as the original bungee strap

This bungee cord allows me much more flexibility in strapping things down, as I can choose to wrap 1,2 or 3 times around the items, depending on the size of the items and where I hook the bungee cord.

A nice addition is the having a plastic disk with the LCSG logo on my bike, hung under the saddle bag!

LoveCyclingSG Logo!

Update: I have added the Ortlieb Front Roller Classic Panniers onto my Arclite Rear Rack, read up on the Ortliebs here!

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Are You a Weight Weenie?

Updated 01 October 2017

Are you a weight weenie? Google defines it as "A cyclist that is concerned about the weight of his or her bicycle." But I feel that this definition is not strong at all, it fails to capture the single-minded, relentless pursuit of bicycle weight loss. As found elsewhere on bike forums, the definition below captures the essential meaning of a weight weenie much better.

"A true weight weenie is one who can't sleep at night thinking about his next upgrade and all the possibilities for grams to be shaved-off. When the dream eventually becomes a reality, the process is again repeated."

I couldn't have said it better! Many cyclists like to upgrade components in order to save weight, believing that it will make them go faster. Whether it is really true or not, I am not sure. Even if you do go a bit faster, the gain is probably miniscule compared to the total time. The majority of the weight actually comes from the rider, so losing weight off the rider is probably more effective (but harder!)

I have gone through many many different bike components for all the bikes that I have upgraded. Along the way, I have actually kept a pretty good record of the component weights! Initially it was only meant for my own reference, to see if a new component is really as light as the manufacturer claims to be. But the database expanded and expanded, and I have the weights of most components that have come into contact with the bikes.

 
Want to know the weight of all these components? Read on to find out!

Before you get too excited, take note that some of these component weights were measured using a luggage scale, while others are measured using a digital weighing scale. The accuracy for the luggage weighing scale is probably something like +/-10 grams, while the digital weighing scale seems to haev an accuracy of  +/-1 grams. Nevertheless, it can serve as a great reference when you need to compare component weights. One advantage of using a luggage scale is that it can weigh large components such as a bicycle frame or wheelset, and has a much higher weight limit than small digital scales.

Am I a weight weenie? I am probably a "weenie" weight weenie, which means that I do care about losing weight off the bike, but not to the extent that I put in lots of money to obtain the lightest components. For me, changing a component to get a weight loss of less than 100 grams is probably not worth the extra money.

After looking at the component weights below, you will know if you are a weight weenie. If you find yourself checking out where to get a lighter component, you probably are!

Let me use the component list as seen in the Bike Comparision Series, "Cheap Bikes vs Premium Bikes".

Frame and Fork

Dahon Boardwalk D7 Frameset
Dahon Boardwalk Chromoly Steel Frame (including headset, frame latch, seatpost clamp, RD hanger): 3020 grams
Dahon Vitesse Aluminium Frame (including headset, frame latch, seatpost clamp, RD hanger): 2320 grams
Dahon MuEX Aluminium Frame (including frame latch, seatpost clamp, RD hanger, FD roller): 2340 grams
Wheelsport Fantasy 2.0 Mini Velo Frame (including RD hanger, seatpost clamp, headset parts): 1760 grams
Jave Freccia Carbon Mini Velo Frame (including RD hanger, seatpost clamp, seatpost cover): 1091 grams

Wheelsport Fantasy Aluminium Fork
Dahon 20" Chromoly Fork: 800 grams (Found on Speed, Boardwalk, Vitesse D7 frames)
Dahon 20" Puro U7 Aluminium Fork + Compression Bolt: 488 grams
Tern 20" Xaris Fork + Top Cap: 454 grams
Wheelsport Fantasy Aluminium Fork (with steel steerer tube): 697 grams
Wheelsport Fantasy Carbon Fork (with aluminium steerer tube): 605 grams
Java Freccia Carbon Mini Velo Fork (with carbon steerer tube): 413 grams

LitePro Headset: 72 grams
Headset for Java Freccia: 58 grams

Contact Points and Steering System
Ergon GP-3 Grips
Ergon GX-2 Magnesium Grips: 220 grams/pair (discontinued)
Ergon GR-2 Grips: 244 grams/pair
Ergon GP-3 Grips: 232 grams/pair
LitePro Foam Grips: 77 grams/pair

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Pedals
MKS FD-6 Pedals: 440 grams/pair
LitePro G017 Pedals: 220 grams/pair
Wellgo M142 Pedals: 220 grams/pair
Wellgo QRD M111 QR Pedals: 321 grams/pair
Shimano PD-M324 Pedals: 520 grams/pair
Shimano PD-A530 Pedals: 380 grams/pair
Shimano Saint PD-MX80 Pedals: 460 grams/pair
Shimano PD-T400 Clickr' Pedals: ~500 grams/pair

Selle Anatomica Watershed Leather Titanico Saddle
Biologic Aria Saddle: 380 grams
Biologic Impel Saddle: 277 grams
Bontrager Evoke RL Saddle: 230 grams
Rido LT Road Saddle: 230 grams
Selle Anatomica Watershed Leather Titanico Saddle: 479 grams
Selle Italia SLS Kit Carbonio Flow Saddle: 233 grams
Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow Saddle: 121 grams
Selle Italia SLR Titanium Saddle: 141 grams
Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow Saddle: 255 grams
Selle Italia C2 Gel Flow Saddle:  273 grams
Selle Italia Q-Bik Flow Saddle: 270 grams
Fizik Aliante R3 Saddle: 225 grams
Merida Scultura 5000 Stock Saddle: 336 grams

Dahon Mu Uno Handlepost, and the Height Adjustable Handlepost
Tern Physis 3D Handlepost, 12 degree tilt, 290mm long: 710 grams
Dahon Height Adjustable Handlepost: 752 grams
Dahon Mu Uno Handlepost: 635 grams
Dahon Jetstream P8 Handlepost: 580 grams
Fnhon T-Handlepost, 31.5cm length: 521 grams
Fnhon 2 Bolt Handlepost, 31.5 cm length: 542 grams
Fnhon 4 Bolt Handlepost, 27cm length: 511 grams

Wheelsport Fantasy Folding Handlepost: 401 grams

Gold colour LitePro Stem
PRO PLT Stem, 100mm: 126 grams
Merida/Controltech Road Stem, 90mm: 125 grams
Controltech Road Stem, 80mm: 112 grams
Fizik Cyrano R1 Road Stem, 100mm: 126 grams

LitePro Stem: 100 grams
Parasol Tree Stem, 31.8mm, separate clamps: 113 grams
Parasol Tree Stem, 31.8mm, one piece construction: 72 grams
Controltech 25.4/31.8mm Stem: 96 grams

Stock Dahon handlebar and Controltech Scandium handlebar
Dahon Boardwalk Stock Flat Handlebar: 260 grams
Controltech Scandium Flat Handlebar: 130 grams
LitePro Spirit Flat Handlebar: 146 grams
LitePro Monster Flat Handlebar: 178 grams

Dahon Speed Pro TT Bullhorn Bar: 260 grams
ABR Drop Bar: 220 grams
FSA Vero Compact Drop Bar, 400mm: 305 grams
FSA Gossamer Compact Drop Bar, 420mm: 308 grams
FSA K-Force Compact Carbon Drop Bar, 400mm: 204 grams

OTA Seatpost
Dahon Boardwalk Stock Seatpost, 33.9mm: 590 grams
Biologic Zorin Post Pump, 33.9mm: 700 grams
OTA Seatpost, 33.9mm: 350 grams
Crius Seatpost, 33.9mm: 416 grams
LitePro A61 Seatpost, 33.9mm: 314 grams

Avanti Inc 3 Stock Seatpost, 31.6mm: 400 grams
Kore Seatpost, 31.6mm: 304 grams

Merida Scultura Stock Carbon Seatpost, 27.2mm, 350mm long: 266 grams
FSA SL-K ITC Zero Setback Carbon Seatpost, 27.2mm, 400mm long: 239 grams
FSA Energy Aluminium Seatpost, 27.2mm: 275 grams
Canyon S15 VCLS 2.0 Carbon Fiber Seatpost, 27.2mm, 350mm long: 236 grams


Wheelsets and QR Axles

Dahon D7 Stock 406 Wheelset
Dahon D7 Stock 406 Front Wheel: 650 grams
Dahon D7 Stock 406 Rear Wheel: 980 grams
Dahon D7 406 Wheelset Total: 1630 grams

Kinetix Comp 406 Wheelset
Kinetix Comp 406 Front Wheel: 550 grams
Kinetix Comp 406 Rear Wheel: 940 grams
Kinetix Comp 406 Wheelset Total: 1490 grams

PZ Racing 406 Wheelset
PZ Racing 406 Front Wheel: 500 grams
PZ Racing 406 Rear Wheel: 640 grams
PZ Racing 406 Wheelset Total: 1140 grams


Wheelsport Smart 1.0 406 Wheelset
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 406 Front Wheel: 452 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 406 Rear Wheel: 692 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 406 Wheelset Total: 1144 grams


Wheelsport Sunny 406 Front Wheel
Wheelsport Sunny 406 Front Wheel: 495 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Sunny 406 Rear Wheel: 709 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Sunny 406 Wheelset Total: 1144 grams

Wheelsport Smart 1.0 451 Wheelset
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 451 Front Wheel: 584 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 451 Rear Wheel: 793 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Wheelsport Smart 1.0 451 Wheelset Total: 1377 grams

Custom Novatec/Chris King 406 Wheelset
Custom 406 Front Wheel (LitePro rim, Novatec A551SB front hub, 20 spokes):
494 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Custom 406 Rear Wheel (LitePro rim, Chris King R45 11 speed hub, 24 spokes):
658 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Custom 406 Wheelset Total: 1152 grams


Dahon Kinetix Pro 406 wheelset
Kinetix Pro 406 Front Wheel: 408 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Kinetix Pro 406 Rear Wheel: 590 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Kinetix Pro 406 Wheelset Total: 998 grams


Ultegra 6800 700C Front Wheel
Ultegra 6800 700C Front Wheel: 720 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Ultegra 6800 700C Rear Wheel: 940 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Ultegra 6800 700C Wheelset Total: 1660 grams


Reynolds Assault Limited Edition Disc Wheelset
Reynolds Assault 700C Disc Front Wheel: 763 grams (inclusive of rim tape)
Reynolds Assault 700C Disc Rear Wheel: 874 grams (inclusive of rim tape)

Reynolds Assault 700C Disc Wheelset Total: 1637 grams


DT Swiss R 24 Spline Disc Road 700C Front Wheel: 820 grams

TAT Titanium QR Axles
Agogo Titanium QR Axles, 74/130 mm: 43 grams
GUB Titanium QR Axles, 74/130 mm: 56 grams
Wheelsport Steel QR Axles, 74/130 mm: 112 grams
TAT Titanium QR Axles, 74/130 mm: 73 grams

Merida Comp 24 QR Axles, 100/130 mm: 119 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 QR Axles, 100/130 mm: 120 grams
Shimano Deore XT M8000 QR Axles, 100/135 mm: 124 grams


Tires & Inner Tubes

Schwalbe Marathon Racers on Kinetix Comp rims
Dahon D7 20" Rotolo Tires: 840 grams/pair
Schwalbe 20" 40-406 Marathon (Wire bead): 1114 grams/pair
Schwalbe 20" 40-406 Marathon Racers (Foldable): 700 grams/pair
Schwalbe 20" 35-406 Kojak (Wire bead): 580 grams/pair
Schwalbe 20" 35-406 Kojak (Foldable): 460 grams/pair
Panaracer Minits Lite 20" 23-406 (Foldable): 342 grams/pair
Schwalbe One 20" 23-451 (Foldable): 323 grams/pair
Panaracer Minits Lite 20" 28-451 (Foldable): 402 grams/pair

Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x32C (Foldable): 750 grams/pair
Schwalbe One 700x25C (Foldable): 490 grams/pair
Continental GP4000 700x28C (Foldable): 532 grams/pair
Continental Grand Prix 4 Season 700x28C: 568 grams/pair
Continental Ultra Sport 700x23C (Foldable): 504 grams/pair


Schwalbe SV7B 20" 451 Inner Tube
Schwalbe SV7 20x1.5" tube: 148 grams
Schwalbe SV6A 20x1.25-1.5" tube: 66 grams
Schwalbe SV6 20x1.25-1.5" tube: 100 grams
Stock D7 20x1.75 tube: 120 grams
Kenda 20x1.5" tube: 140 grams
Schwalbe SV7A 20" 451 tube: 98 grams
Schwalbe SV7B 20" 451 tube: 78 grams

CST 700x18/25C Super Thin FV48mm Inner Tube: 65 grams
Schwalbe SV18 Extralight Inner Tube: 105 grams
Schwalbe SV15 60mm Valve Inner Tube: 109 grams


Shifters, Brake Levers and Brake Calipers

SRAM X9 and Shimano Deore XT Shifters
SRAM X9 9 Speed Rear Shifter: 140 grams
Shimano Deore XT 9 Speed M770 Rear Shifter: 140 grams
Shimano SL-R780 2x10 Speed Flat Handlebar Road Shifter: 274 grams/pair
Shimano XTR Di2 SW-9050 Firebolt Shifters: 128 grams/pair

Shimano Ultegra Di2 ST-6770 Shifters
Shimano Tiagra ST-4500 Road Shifter, 2x9 Speed: 500 grams/pair
Shimano 105 5700 Road Shifter, 2x10 Speed: 490 grams/pair
Shimano Ultegra Di2 ST-6770 Road Shifter: 315 grams/pair
Shimano ST-6800 2x11 Speed Mechanical Road Shifter: 425 grams/pair
Shimano ST-R785 Road Hydraulic Brake+Di2 Shifter: 504 grams/pair
Shimano ST-R9170 Road Hydraulic Brake+Di2 Shifter: 320 grams/pair
Shimano ST-RS685 Road Hydraulic Brake+Mechanical Shifter, 2x11 Speed: 644 grams/pair
Shimano ST-R9120 Road Hydraulic Brake+Mechanical Shifter, 2x11 Speed: 530 grams/pair

Avid Speed Dial 7 Brake Levers with some gold bling
Avid Speed Dial 7 Brake Levers: 170 grams/pair
Tektro RL720 Cyclocross Brake Levers: 90 grams/pair
Shimano LX Trekking BL-T670 Brake Levers: 206 grams/pair
Shimano Sora BL-3500 Brake Levers: 171 grams/pair

 Tektro R559 Brake Calipers
Avid Single Digit 7 Brake Calipers: 340 grams/pair
Tektro R559 Extra Long Reach Brake Calipers: 350 grams/pair
Shimano Deore XT Trekking BR-T780 V-Brake Calipers: 365 grams/pair
Shimano Sora BR-3500 Road Brake Calipers: 366 grams/pair
Shimano 105 5800 Road Brake Calipers: 389 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 Road Brake Calipers: 341 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Road Brake Calipers: 298 grams


Rear and Front Derailleurs

Shimano Ultegra Di2 RD
Dahon Neos 1.0 RD: 220 grams
SRAM X9 9 Speed, Short Cage RD: 190 grams
Shimano Tiagra 4500, Short Cage RD: 280 grams
Shimano 105 5600, Short Cage RD: 230 grams
Shimano 105 5700, Short Cage RD: 223 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6700, Short Cage RD: 190 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800, Short Cage RD: 197 grams
Shimano Ultegra Di2 6770 Short Cage RD: 272 grams
Shimano Ultegra Di2 6870 Short Cage RD: 256 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000, Short Cage RD: 160 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace R9150 Di2, Short Cage RD: 197 grams

Shimano Ultegra Di2 FD
LitePro FD Adaptor: 60 grams
Shimano Tiagra FD-4500, Braze On Double: 100 grams
Shimano 105 FD-5700, Braze On Double: 80 grams
Shimano Ultegra Di2 6770 FD: 167 grams
Shimano Ultegra Di2 6870 FD: 138 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 Clamp Type FD: 105 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Braze On FD: 65 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace R9150 Di2, Brazed On FD: 102 grams
Shimano SLX Side-Swing Low-Clamp FD: 135 grams

Drivetrain

Dahon Boardwalk D7 Stock Crankset (including square taper BB): 1160 grams

Shimano 105 5600 10 speed crankset, 53/39T, 170mm
Shimano 105 5600 Right Crankarm (without chainrings): 360 grams
Shimano 105 5600 Left Crankarm: 180 grams
Shimano 105 5600 Chainrings (53/39) + Chainring Bolts: 200 grams
Shimano 105 5700 BB: 90 grams
Shimano 105 5600 Crankset Total: 830 grams

Shimano 105 5700 10 speed crankset, 53/39T, 170mm
Shimano 105 5700 Right Crankarm (with chainrings): 576 grams
Shimano 105 5700 Left Crankarm: 199 grams
Shimano 105 5700 BB: 90 grams
Shimano 105 5700 Crankset Total: 865 grams


Shimano Ultegra FC-6700 Crankset, 53/39T, 170mm
Shimano Ultegra 6700 Right Crankarm (without chainrings): 350 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6700 Left Crankarm: 200 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6700 Chainrings (53/39) + Chainring bolts: 150 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6700 BB: 100 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6700 Crankset Total: 800 grams

Shimano FC-RS500 Non-Series 11 Speed Road Crankset
Shimano FC-RS500 Right Crankarm (including chainrings): 546 grams
Shimano FC-RS500 Left Crankarm: 249 grams
Shimano Tiagra 4600 BB: 90 grams
Shimano FC-RS500 Crankset Total: 885 grams

Shimano Ultegra FC-6800 Crankset, 50/34T, 170mm
Shimano Ultegra 6800 Right Crankarm (including chainrings): 480 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 Left Crankarm: 197 grams
Shimano SM-BBR60 BB: 76 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 Crankset Total: 753 grams

Shimano Dura-Ace FC-9000 Compact Crankset, 50/34T, 170mm
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Right Crankarm (including chainrings): 440 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Left Crankarm: 176 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 BB: 67 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Crankset Total: 683 grams

Tiagra BB-4600 vs Dura-Ace BB-9000
Aerozine Ceramic BB: 100 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace SM-BB9000 Threaded: 64 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace SM-BB92 Press Fit: 55 grams
Shimano SM-BBR60 BB: 76 grams
Shimano 105 5700 BB: 90 grams
Shimano Tiagra 4600 BB: 90 grams
Shimano MTB SM-BB51 BB (including 2 spacers): 96 grams

Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Cassette, 11-28T
Shimano Tiagra 4600 10 speed cassette, 12-30T: 329 grams
Shimano 105 5700 10 speed cassette, 12-27T: 230 grams
Shimano 105 5700 10 speed cassette, 11-28T: 251 grams
Shimano 105 5800 11 speed cassette, 11-28T: 275 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed cassette, 11-28T: 247 grams
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed cassette, 11-32T: 280 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 11 speed cassette, 11-25T: 176 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace R9000 11 speed cassette, 11-30T: ???

Driveline Aluminium Bashguard (53T): 120 grams

Shimano Dura-Ace 7901 Chain: 263 grams
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Chain: 248 grams

Accessories

Dahon Stock Kickstand: 160 grams
Pletscher Double Kickstand: 553 grams
LitePro Lightweight Kickstand: 157 grams

SKS 20" Fenders: 300 grams/set

Minoura Space Grip SGL-300: 100 grams

Polaroid XS100i Wifi Extreme Edition (excluding mount): 149 grams

Shimano Sport Camera CM-1000 (excluding mount): 86 grams

Cyclic Fly 6 Rear Camera+Rear Light (including mount): 141 grams

 Lezyne SuperDrive XL Front Light
Blaze Laser Bike Light: 169 grams
NiteRider Mako 200 Front Light: 133 grams

Busch & Muller IXON IQ Front Light: 230 grams
Lezyne PowerDrive/SuperDrive XL Front Light: 161 grams
S-Sun 1W Front Light + Mount (including batteries): 110 grams

D-Light USB Rechargeable Front or Rear Light: 25 grams
Topeak RedLite Aero Rear Light: 33 grams
BBB Signal LED Rear Light: 32 grams
SMART 0.5W Rear Light (including batteries): 55 grams

Dahon Luggage Truss: 200 grams
Dahon Tour Bag: 900 grams
Biologic Arclite Rack: 540 grams
Racktime Rear Rack for 700C Bikes (on Avanti Inc 3: 700 grams

SagaRider Rear Seatpost Bag: 870 grams

Ortlieb Front Roller Classic: 790 grams each, including shoulder strap

Topeak Aero Wedge Pack Saddle Bag, Large: 180 grams
Topeak Weatherproof Dynawedge Saddle Bag: 46 grams

Lezyne Micro Floor Drive: 170 grams
Lezyne Pressure Drive, Small (including mounting bracket): 103 grams
Lezyne Pressure Drive, Medium (including mounting bracket): 116 grams
Lezyne CO2 Trigger Drive + 16 gram cartridge: 83 grams

Topeak Mini 9 Multi Tool: 92 grams
Topeak Universal Chain Tool: 81 grams

Merida Aluminium Bottle Cage: 25 grams
Elite Custom Race PA+GF Bottle Cage: 42 grams
Filled 500ml Water Bottle: 600-700 grams


Have you identified your next upgrade? Surprised at how much your current component weighs? You may be a weight weenie after all!

Monday, January 2, 2012

How to Have a Safe and Pleasant Cycling Journey

It is heartening to see that there are more and more people picking up cycling in Singapore. Be it for commuting or just leisure cycling, I have noted that there are more people on bikes compared to perhaps a year ago. However, I feel that although many cyclists know how to ride a bicycle, they do not know how to ride safely. Therefore, I have written a short list of Do's and Don'ts for cycling. By adhering to these simple guidelines, it will go a long way in ensuring your personal safety while riding.

Cycle safe, cycle fun!


Do

  • Ensure that your bicycle is in good working condition before every ride:
To avoid having troublesome or even dangerous breakdowns during a ride, do check that the bicycle is functioning properly. The bare minimum to check would be the brakes, the tire pressure and any folding joints if you ride a folding bike.

  • Bring your own tools and spares:
Bare essentials include a pump, tire levers, spare tube or patch, and a multi-tool. Learn to use these tools! Do not expect people to give you their spare tubes or repair your bike for you, although there may be kind souls who will do so.

  • Ride in a single file:
This allows vehicles enough room to overtake safely. If the vehicle overtakes in the next lane, there is plenty of room between bicycle and vehicle. Also, the cycling group will be seen as taking up less space on the road, as compared to riding two abreast and taking up the whole lane.

Additionally, staggering the line slightly can increase each rider's visibility of the road, as you can see further down the line without being blocked by the rider directly in front of you. Alternate riders (Eg, 2nd, 4th, 6th rider and so on) can ride slightly to the right of the cyclist in front, take note not to go too close or overlap wheels!

  • Check your blind spot before filtering left or right:
Similar to driving a car, please turn your head to check if there are any riders on your left or right before you change lanes or overtake. A mirror helps, but cannot substitute the final backward-glance. Which brings us to the next point...

  • Ride in a straight line even when you turn your head to glance behind:
Many riders, especially new riders, cannot keep a straight line when they turn their heads to look behind. Please practice this, so that you do not drift into other riders when you check your blind spot.

  • Keep to your lane, especially when cornering.
Do not drift wide when cornering and knock other riders off! Ride predictably.

  • Use hand signals whenever possible:
This will let the riders behind you know your intention. Essential signals include turning left, right, stopping or slowing down. If you see an obstacle, do point to it so that other riders can also spot it. Sometimes, it is difficult to take one hand off the handlebar because of the bumpy road, but do signal if it is safe to do so.

  • Echo warnings up or down the line
Warnings such as "Hole!" will allow other riders to be prepared to avoid obstacles, whereas it is good practice to shout "Car Back!" to the riders in front to remind them to keep left to avoid the cars coming up from the back. Do repeat the warnings either up or down the line to ensure that everyone gets the message.

  • Brake to a sufficiently low speed before entering a corner:
Braking while cornering can be dangerous, especially if you brake hard and lock up your front or rear wheel. This will cause your bike to skid and you will most likely crash. A safer way to tackle steep, curvy downslopes is to brake before the corner, to a speed which is slow enough for you to take the corner without braking. During cornering, just concentrate on maintaining a good cornering line, you can feather the brakes if you need to scrub off some more speed. Keep your inside pedal up to prevent the pedal from hitting the ground.

  • Cross drain-grilles-that-run-parallel-to-the-road by riding diagonally across them:
This applies to slim road tires. Go across these drain covers diagonally so that your tires do not get stuck in the gap and send you flying.

  • Concentrate on riding, especially when on the roads:
While on park connectors, it is generally OK to ride two abreast and chat, but while on the roads, it is good practice to ride in a single file (most of the time). Concentrate on what's ahead of you, especially if the road is bumpy with many "patches", or in heavy traffic. You never know when you need to swerve to avoid a pothole or a plank on the ground.

  • Practise defensive riding:
This means anticipating danger before it arises. If you see the rider in front fumbling or coming to a stop, either prepare to stop, or do a quick check at your blind spot before overtaking. Same for buses pulling out of bus bays. Put your fingers on the brake levers when passing through traffic junctions, so that you can brake in time in case a car decides to cut you off with a right turn from the opposite lane.

  • Take the entire lane if it is safer to do so:
Sometimes, the lane is too narrow for a car to overtake you safely. Examples are sliproads with zebra crossing, single lane roads with kerbs on both sides, single lane roads with curves and blind corners, right turn lanes, etc. If you try to keep left on these narrow lanes, some vehicles will try to squeeze past you, forcing you to the kerb. Ride in the middle of the lane, so that there is no way they can squeeze past you. If they horn at you, just offer an apologetic wave (not the finger!), and try to clear the section as soon as possible.

  • Stay on the left-most right turn lane when turning right:
Sometimes there is more than one right turning lane. In this case, keep to the left-most right turning lane, which is usually the second lane. This ensures that after the right turn, you will already be on the left most lane. While waiting for the turn and during the turn, take the entire lane as it prevents other vehicles from getting too cozy.

If the right turning lane is also a straight moving lane, and you are the first vehicle in line, move towards the centre of the junction as you wait for the right turn, so that you do not impede straight moving vehicles. If there are right turning vehicles in front of you, just wait patiently behind them.

  • Respect the traffic rules on the road:
Many cyclists think it is OK to run a red light, as long as there are no cars going in the perpendicular direction. This is especially true for 3-way junctions. There may be no danger to you, but there will be drivers and passengers in the cars, pedestrians standing around, all watching you as you flout the rules and dash through the red light. If we want to be taken as a legitimate road user, we have to follow the traffic rules first! Just a few black sheep will spoil the image of cyclists for everyone. People will pick on the 10% of cyclists that run the red light, not the other 90% that abides by the traffic rules.

  • Pay attention to pre-ride briefings:
The organiser will brief everyone on the route and the danger spots to look out for. Please take note and be responsible for your own safety. If unsure, please ask! Ultimately, your safety is in your own hands.

  • Have proper bicycle lighting for night rides:
It is difficult for other vehicles to spot you at night, you will need lights to increase your visibility. At the very minimum, you will need a white blinker in front and a rear blinker at the rear. The more lights the better! These lights are not there for you to see the road, it is for other people to see you. Also, ensure that the batteries in the lights are not dying.

Reflectors are not bright enough to be seen, and rarely work effectively. Wearing bright or even reflective clothing will help a lot by increasing your visibility at night.


Don'ts

  • Ride too close to the rider in front, especially on leisure rides:
For leisure rides, there is no need to draft. Drafting requires skill, practice, coordination and proper riding etiquette, it is not just about following close and staying on the wheel. Leave drafting to the road racers and professionals. Keep a safe following distance, at least 1 bike length, so that you have sufficient time to react should anything happen in front. On downhills, please keep further away, I suggest at least 20 metres behind!

  • Overtake on a blind corner:
Especially on downslopes with bends, do not overtake during a corner! You never know what cornering line the rider in front is going to take. Will he be going wide or cutting in? If you touch wheels, both of the riders will crash. Wait for a suitable straight stretch of road before overtaking safely, with a good side clearance.

  • Make sudden movements or stops:
While riding, if you find a need to stop, such as if you dropped something or need to tie your shoelaces, do not just brake and stop without warning! The rider behind you may not be able to react in time. What you should do is to signal that you are stopping and slow down gradually, and pull off to the side.

  • Use your phone or fiddle with your gadgets while riding:
It is dangerous enough to drive while on the phone, it is even more so while cycling! Similarly, don't attempt to play with your iPod or GoPro while riding, not only is it unstable to ride with one hand, it will distract you from the riding. If there is an urgent need to answer a call, please stop at the side of the road.

  • Insist on your right of way:
If the car on the side road insists on pulling out in front of you, let it go. If the car in the opposite lane wants to make a right turn and cut you off, slow down and let it pass. If the bus is already inching out of the bus bay, let it come out first. In an accident involving cyclists and cars, cyclists will always be on the losing end. Protect yourself with your defensive actions, not the rulebook. Moreover, it can be fun to wave a car to move on!

  • Run red lights:
As stated in the Do's section, please follow the traffic rules. It is not just about your safety or other riders' safety, it is also about the image of cyclists. Show other road users that cyclists can also be law-abiding and legitimate road users, not a second-class breed that ignores all rules and belongs neither on the road nor the pavement.

  • Get agitated by unreasonable road users:
There are some narrow-minded people out there who believe that cyclists do not belong on the roads. Even if you are cycling on the left of the left lane, and the vehicle is passing on the right lane, these drivers will still use the horn as they pass you. No need to get agitated. What is important is that you are safe. Those drivers are horning at you because they are angry that they need to pay road tax, while you are enjoying your ride for free. 

  • Ride too close to a parked vehicle:
You never know when someone is going to open the door right in your path and send you flying. Check your blind spot, then filter to the right, far enough so that even if the door opens, you will not be hit.

  • Ride too close to the left of the lane:
Many new riders like to stick too close to the left of the lane, riding on the yellow lines or even inside the yellow lines. This is very dangerous, as there are lots of road debris or drain covers that can make you lose control of the bike. A much safer place to ride would be just outside the double yellow lines. If a vehicle comes too close, you still have space to move in slightly.

  • Squeeze to the front of the waiting vehicles when stopped at the traffic light:
If you squeeze to the front, it makes it difficult for the cars to overtake you when the lights turn green. No point slowing them down. A safer and friendlier way is to take the middle of the lane and wait behind the cars. Behave like a car. Let them move off first, you will catch up with them at the next traffic light anyway.

  • Ride on metal drain covers or lane markings when it is wet:
When wet, metal surfaces or painted lines on the roads can be treacherous. There is practically no friction when you ride on them. If it is unavoidable, ride in a straight line over these surfaces, do not brake or turn when you are travelling on these slippery surfaces. Attempting to corner while on these surfaces will cause your tires to slip (no matter knobbly or slick tires) and cause a wipeout.



Summary
This list of Do's and Don't is by no means exhaustive or definitive. There may be cases where these rules don't apply. However, these guidelines have served me well, and I have managed to avoid some accidents because I applied defensive riding. After all, safety begins with yourself, no one else is responsible for your own safety!

Please spread the safety message, share the guidelines, ride safe and have fun!