Showing posts with label DIY Guides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY Guides. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 8, 2020

Ultrasonic Cleaning for Chain and Cassette

How often do you clean your bicycle's drivetrain? It is inevitable that it gets dirty through usage, especially if you ride off-road or on wet roads.

Before I converted my Canyon Endurace to a part-time gravel bike, it was a pure road bike which I only rode on roads, and only during good weather. As such, the drivetrain was able to stay clean for a long period of time, before it gets too dirty and needs to be cleaned.

However, ever since I set it up for gravel use, it has seen a lot more off-road usage, which causes the drivetrain to get dirty much more easily and more often. It takes just one wet or sandy ride to generate crunching sounds from the drivetrain, caused by sand and other bits being shifted through the moving parts.

It is the same scenario for the new Cervelo Aspero gravel bike as well. A dirty drivetrain is still usable, just that it will accelerate the wear of the components, such as the cassette, rear derailleur pulleys, chain rings and chain. Therefore, it is a good idea to clean and lube the drivetrain once it gets too dirty. In my case, it is too dirty when the chain looks completely dry with no lube, with lots of gunk around the pulleys.

The drivetrain parts to be cleaned are the cassette sprockets, rear derailleur pulleys, chain rings and chain. I used to clean all these parts, either on or off the bike, by wet tissue or some cleaning agent + rags. It was very time consuming and needed a lot of effort, plus the end result was not very clean.

I decided to try out an ultrasonic cleaner, which uses ultrasonic energy to create lots of tiny cavitation bubbles in the fluid. When the bubbles collapse, it generates high temperature and pressure on a microscopic scale, this is what removes the contaminants on the surface of the material. For more details on ultrasonic cleaning, check out the Wikipedia link.

Small scale ultrasonic cleaners are not expensive, you can get it online or locally from Scootz (in Singapore). I wanted a unit that was big enough to hold a cassette sprocket (ideally the 34T sprocket from the CS-HG800 cassette), to minimize the effort needed to load and unload the ultrasonic cleaner multiple times.

The one that I got has a claimed capacity of 2 litres, which is a good size for most bicycle parts.

Ultrasonic cleaner, with digital settings for the heater and timer.

Close up look at the control panel, where the heater function and timer function can be adjusted and set independently.

Details of the cleaner can be seen at the back. The master on/off switch is here.

Nice smooth stainless steel tank 

Comes with a little basket to hold the items that you want to clean. It has rubber legs to prevent the metal basket from rubbing against the metal tank. 

Here is how the basket fits inside the tank. However, the basket also reduces the usable volume of the tank.

Tested the ultrasonic cleaner for the first time, to see how it works. 

I used a temperature of 60 degrees Celsius for better cleaning effectiveness.

For a start, I tested the cleaning function with some other items, such as the Bike Peddler Take-A-Look mirror that I always use. I added only water and nothing else for this test.

It is quite amazing as once I started the machine, I could see the dirt drifting out from the hidden areas. After the cleaning was complete, it was very clean! It could not have been cleaner even if I had used soap and scrubbed the mirror, as there are many small hidden areas that cannot be reached.

The next step is to try with the chain, as it is very difficult to clean the chain properly even after removing it from the bike. Let's see how effective the ultrasonic cleaner is.

One trick I learnt from reading online guides is to use a ziplock bag, and place the item to be cleaned inside the bag. This prevents the tank from becoming dirty. Make sure to add water around the bag as well, inside the tank.

Using a ziplock bag to hold the dirty chain. I added warm water from the kettle, instead of relying on the built-in heater.

This is with just some hand soap. After 10 seconds this is what you see. 

This is after one cleaning cycle of 10 minutes. Not very effective from what I see...

It seems that the cleaning is not effective, probably because I did not use a proper cleaning agent. Warm water and some hand soap is not strong enough to clean the dirt off the chain.

I went out to get a bottle of degreaser, hoping that it will make the cleaning more effective.

A bottle of expensive degreaser from the nearest bike shop. It came with a spray head that did not even work...

I also found that the ziplock method was not very good, as the chain will rest directly on the bottom of the tank (through the thin walls of the ziplock bag). This caused a lot of vibration, and also scratched the surface of the stainless steel tank.

Instead of using a thin ziplock bag, I changed to a plastic takeaway container, which fitted well inside the tank. This will prevent the parts from scratching the walls of the tank, and also makes it easier to rinse and clean the parts.

Added some degreaser to the warm water, with the chain inside. Remember to add water on the outside of the container!

Much better this time. This is after cleaning the second time with degreaser. 

However, the areas between the links and under the rollers still have quite a bit of dirt.

It seems that during cleaning, the solution may get saturated, or the degreaser may have been used up, which makes it difficult for any more dirt to be removed from the chain. Therefore, the only way is to empty the used solution and to put in fresh water and more degreaser, and repeat the cleaning process.

Finally, after 4 times of ultrasonic cleaning! Duration is 10 minutes each time. The first time probably doesn't count as degreaser was not used. 

Even the hidden areas between the rollers and links are cleaned, which will normally take a lot of brushing with strong cleaning agents.

Next up will be the cassette, which also gets very dirty with usage. Other than the chain and cassette, the rear derailleur pulleys and chain rings also need to be cleaned. For the pulleys, I am not sure if it is a good idea to clean with the ultrasonic cleaner, as it may damage the plastic surface.

As for the chain rings, it obviously does not fit inside the tank. The 34T inner chain ring (Dura-Ace R9100) might fit, but it might damage the chrome surface finishing on it.

Cassette is very dirty as can be seen here. 

This is after I wiped the cassette sprockets with a wet tissue, but before using the ultrasonic cleaner.

After running it for 2 cycles (5 minutes each), this is the result! Perfectly clean, much better than what I can do by hand. Takes much lesser effort as well.

Same for the smaller sprockets. Takes 2 cycles to get them really clean. 

The bigger sprockets does not fit completely into the tank, so you have to rotate it to clean the entire surface. Left side is before cleaning, right side is after.

Super clean cassette! Even a brand new cassette is not so clean. 

Super clean chain, before applying new chain lube. 

Super clean drivetrain!

I am really pleased with the effectiveness of the ultrasonic cleaner. It takes me much less effort to clean them, and yet is much more effective.


Even the spaces between the sprockets are very clean. It is difficult to clean these areas properly even with a brush.

Points to take note:
1) Isolate the ultrasonic cleaning machine in a room, such as the storeroom, to prevent hearing damage from continued exposure.
2) Degreaser and warm water is very effective for cleaning the cassette and chain.
3) Do not put anything flammable into the tank as it will heat up during usage.
4) It may remove pad printing or other surface treatment from the parts to be cleaned. If in doubt, test it out first.
5) As the parts will come into contact with water, try to dry and lube it as soon as possible, to prevent rusting after cleaning. Unless you are using high end parts that are very rust resistant.

Monday, December 9, 2019

Bike Friday HaD: DIY Headset Tightening Tool

After riding my Bike Friday Haul-A-Day for a few months, I noticed that there was a bit of play in the headset. This can be detected when you operate the front brake lever, and rock the handlebar back and fro. If there is looseness, you will feel a distinct knocking feeling around the headset area.

The special thing about this Haul-A-Day headset and fork design is that the handlepost can be inserted all the way through the middle of the steerer tube. This allows for a great range of handlepost height adjustment.

However, this also means that there is no traditional star nut inserted into the middle of the steerer tube, which is necessary to pre-load the headset in combination with the top cap. Bike Friday recommends using their special headset tool to pre-load the headset.
The instructions for using this special tool can be found at this link (Page 28).
https://www.bikefriday.com/folding-bikes/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/HaulaDay.manual-2018.pdf

This tool basically compresses the headset from the outside, instead of from the inside with a star nut.

I don't have this special tool, so I have to think of some other ways to tighten the headset. I used an expander plug, which is commonly used for carbon steerer tubes, as it prevents damage to the inside of the steerer tube, unlike a traditional star nut.

Theoretically, once the expander plug is mounted tightly inside the steerer tube, I can pre-load the headset by using normal stem spacers and the top cap. It will work the same way as standard steerer tubes and stems.

However, in reality, once I tighten the top cap, the expander plug will be pulled out of the steerer tube, instead of pre-loading the headset bearings. No matter how much I tighten the expander plug, it does not have enough friction to stay inside the steerer tube. So this idea does not work.

Standard expander plug, used to allow the top cap to be tightened to pre-load the headset. But it does not work as there is not enough friction between the expander plug and the inside of the steerer tube.

The other way is to compress the headset from the outside, by pressing down on the top cap and pushing up at the bottom of the fork. I would need something similar to the Bike Friday special tool. It mainly consists of a super long bolt, so that when tightened with a nut, it will pull the whole headset together.

While looking through my spare parts, I found that the quick release axle may work! It is basically just a long bolt with a M5 thread at the end. However, using the longest quick release axle that I have (for rear 135 mm OLD), it is still not long enough to pass through the entire headset and stack of spacers.

Quick release axle inserted through the top cap, with the spacers on the outside to ensure that the compression force is transmitted through the headset bearings. 

However, since the quick release axle is not long enough, I need something that can be inserted into the fork, and then thread onto the end of the quick release axle.

This is where I got lucky, as I found a quick release axle accessory mount, which is usually used to mount lights on the quick release axle. This mount replaces the standard nut on the quick release axle, so it also has an M5 thread.

Example of how the quick release axle mount is normally used.

By sheer luck, this mount fits nicely into the fork, and the lip at the end of the mount fits around the circumference of the fork hole so that it is well supported. The dimensions of this mount fits the fork so well that it seems like it was designed for this purpose!

The mount fits nicely into the bottom of the fork.

The lip of the mount is stopped by the circumference of the bottom hole on the fork. This is just perfect!

Inside the steerer tube, the quick release axle will thread into the M5 threads on the mount. By tightening this, it will pull the headset together and apply the pre-load.

How the DIY headset tool works! It is easy to adjust and basically works the same way as the Bike Friday special tool. Once the compression is done, tighten the clamp bolt to fix the steerer tube in place.

The DIY headset tool consists of the quick release axle, the mount, the top cap, and a bunch of stem spacers.

With this DIY headset tool, I was able to adjust and tighten the headset easily. I highly recommend this DIY tool if you ever need to fix the headset on your Bike Friday Haul-A-Day.

Saturday, August 20, 2016

Avanti Inc 3: DIY Steering Stabilizer

Do you ride a bike that has a heavy front? By heavy front I mean that when the bicycle is parked, the handlebar tends to tilt to the side, and over-rotate. This causes the whole front wheel to flip to the side, and if the front of the bicycle is heavy, the whole bike will fall over, even if it is resting on a kickstand or resting against the wall.

For most road bikes, they can be supported easily against a wall or on the kerb using the pedals, as they are lightweight. Mountain bikes are usually placed with the bar end against the wall, or just laid down on its side on the ground. Other bikes may have kickstands to hold the bike up when parked.

In my case, I have some problem with parking the Avanti Inc 3 when outside. As there is no kickstand, I will rest the bar end of the Ergon GP3 grips against the wall when parked. However, the bike will sometimes roll forward or backwards due to a slight incline of the ground. This causes the handlebar to rotate and the whole bike will fall over.

When there is no wall to lean against, I will rest the bike against my body when stopping for a short while. Even then, the heavy front end will rotate and cause the bike to fall over easily. This is due to the wide handlebar and the many accessories on the handlebar.

To solve this issue, I decided to get a steering stabilizer to prevent over-rotation of the handlebar. It looks like a very simple device, with just a spring to prevent the fork from rotating too much to either side. After failing to get it from Taobao as it was out of stock, I decided to DIY my own steering stabilizer from some common parts.

The basic component of a steering stabilizer is the spring, together with the mounting brackets at each end that mount to the front fork and the downtube of the frame respectively. The spring has to be sufficiently strong to hold the front fork, yet have some play to allow normal steering.

The spring comes from an unused kickstand, which seems to have a suitable length and spring force.

The L-shaped mounting bracket is something that I found from my box of random hardware, and it fits nicely on the back of the front fork.

Basic construction of the DIY steering stabilizer. One end of the spring is held to the front fork by a bracket, while the other end is fixed to the cable holder.

One end of the spring is hooked around the bolt that fixes the cable holder to the frame. Since the force is transmitted through the metal bolt, there is no strength issue here.

The other end of the spring hooks onto the L-shaped bracket, and is fixed to the front fork using the fender mount.

After that, it is a matter of adjusting the spring force to ensure that there is little or no spring resistance during normal steering. On the other hand, the spring force will be activated when the handlebar is rotated beyond a certain angle. This is adjusted by stretching and deforming the spring.

After installing the spring, the handlebar will encounter resistance when rotated beyond 20 degrees to either side. This is more than the steering angle required for normal riding.

As shown here, the spring prevents further movement of the handlebar, which enables the bike to be parked this way without falling over.

When the bike is held by the saddle, the handlebar can only rotate naturally 20 degrees to either side. Does not affect steering at all.

DIY steering stabilizer fixed under the downtube of the bike, and is not obvious at all.

With this steering stabilizer installed, parking this bike is now easy, with little risk of the bike tipping over. Riding and steering of the bike is not affected at all because there is almost no spring resistance at normal steering angles.

If you have the same problem with your bike, this steering stabilizer will solve the issue!

Friday, October 9, 2015

Wheelsport Ultegra Di2 2x11 Speed: Part 4 - Installation Issues and Solutions

Part 1: Frame Design and Carbon Fork
Part 2: Compatibility Check for Wheelset and Brake Calipers
Part 3: Component Selection

With all the required components gathered, it is now time to assemble the bike! The headset bearing cups had already been pressed into the head tube by the bike shop, and this makes it easy for me to assemble everything else without needing any special headset tools.

Before assembling the carbon fork to the Wheelsport Fantasy mini velo frame, the crown race needs to be first installed onto the steerer tube. Being a slotted type of crown race with an open end, this makes it easy to install without needing to press fit it onto the steerer tube. It is a good idea to apply some grease here to prevent creaking.

Installing the crown race onto the steerer tube, after applying some grease onto the contact areas.

After inserting the sealed bearings into the top and bottom of the head tube, the fork can be installed! The compression ring goes on top of the top bearing.

The carbon spacer as shown in Part 1 goes onto the outside of the steerer tube. The stem will then rest on top of it and press down on the headset bearings.

However, the carbon spacer is too long, and the stem protrudes too far above the steerer tube. The solution would be to shorten the carbon spacer by cutting off the excess length.

I had previously shortened a handlebar before by using a pipe cutter, and also shortened the steerer tube of the Tern fork using the same pipe cutter. However, I realised that the maximum diameter that the pipe cutter can accomodate is 30mm. This works well for flat handlebars (22.2mm diameter at the ends) or steerer tubes (28.6mm diameter), but not this carbon spacer (35mm diameter).

Issue number 1:
The solution is to get a saw guide, or a larger pipe cutter. I could not find a saw guide at such short notice, but managed to find a larger pipe cutter at a nearby hardware store. Hopefully this will work!

Using the larger pipe cutter which fits the large diameter carbon spacer

Roll the blade round and round the carbon spacer, tightening the knob after every couple of rounds to eventually cut through the tube. About 13mm of the spacer was eventually cut off.

However, I soon found that a pipe cutter is not really suitable for cutting through a carbon tube. A carbon tube is tougher than aluminium tubes, and it took much longer to cut through this carbon tube. Also, the final cut surface was quite uneven, and was not perpendicular to the tube. This would not allow the carbon spacer to sit flat against the stem or the headset.

More work had to be done, as I had to file the end of the carbon spacer to ensure a flat surface. All these took a lot of work and time, and it would be much better to use a saw guide to cut through the tube for a flat and smooth surface.

Final surface condition of the cut after much filing to create a flat surface. Still acceptable.

Finally, the headset, fork and stem have been installed! It was more troublesome that I thought it would be, due to the tough cutting work required for the carbon spacer.

Next, I decided to install the gold coloured Aerozine ceramic BB onto the frame first.

Gold coloured Aerozine ceramic BB, gives a strong contrast to the matte black frame

After installing the BB, the next step I wanted to do was to confirm the position of the Di2 battery. My preferred position for the Di2 battery is to mount it behind the bottle cage, using the long Di2 battery mount. This would protect the battery from dirt or water kicked up by the front or rear tires.

Location of the bottle cage, and the remaining space available for the Di2 battery

Issue number 2:
Yet another issue has cropped up! Given the location of the bottle cage screw bosses, there is insufficient space left for the Di2 battery. It would not be possible to remove the battery for charging, without first removing the bottle cage.

The solution here is to move the screw location for the bottle cage. Shimano does make a bottle cage adapter to move the screw holes, in an event that the bottle cage interferes with the Di2 battery or the FD.

Shimano bottle cage adapter, SM-BA01. This will allow the screw holes for the bottle cage to be offset by between 32mm to 50mm.

Here is how it works. Fasten the metal plate to the original screw holes. On the metal plate itself, there are two new M5 screw holes for the new bottle cage location. The slots allow adjustment of the offset distance. All these will be covered by the plastic cover as shown.

After much trial and error, this is the final setup of the bottle cage adapter. The bottle cage position has been moved forward and upwards.

I decided to use the Monkii Clip bottle cage, which allows the water bottle to be removed together with the bottle cage when in use. This is necessary as it will be difficult to remove the water bottle from a standard bottle cage, due to frame interference with the water bottle. There is also sufficient space to remove the battery when the Monkii bottle cage is installed.

Ultegra 6800 52/36T mid-compact crankset and Ultegra 6870 Di2 FD installed!

Ultegra 6870 Di2 Short Cage RD installed

Issue number 3:
Unfortunately, another issue was discovered once I tried to tune the gears for the front and rear derailleurs. I found that when the chain is in the front low position (36T chainring), the chain will touch the bottom of the FD chain guide when the higher gears on the cassette are selected.

Chain touching issue when set to front low (36T) and rear top (11T). The chain will drag across the end of the chain guide when pedaling, which creates a lot of noise and friction.

In fact, this chain touching issue will occur if the RD is set to the higher 9 gears (11T to 21T sprockets), and the chain only just manages to clear the chain guide when in the lower two gears (23T and 25T) on the cassette. This problem only occurs when in the small 36T chainring, and not in the large 52T chainring.

Chain position when set to front low (36T) and rear low (25T). The chain is almost touching the end of the FD chain guide.

After much thinking and research, I found that this is mainly due to the geometry of small wheeled bikes as compared to standard large wheeled bikes. On standard 700C wheeled road bikes, the rear cassette position is above the BB, whereas on small wheeled bikes, the rear cassette position is below the BB. This is why this FD will fit nicely on standard road bikes, but will have chain touching issue when used on this particular mini velo frame.

On the road bike, the chain runs upwards from the BB to the rear cassette, while on the mini velo, the chain runs downwards from the BB to the rear cassette. If the FD mounting position is not correct, it will cause shifting and interference issues.

One curious thing is that when I previously installed the Shimano 105 5700 FD on the other Wheelsport Fantasy bike, it did not have the same issue. After checking it out, I found that this is because the length of the FD chain guide is different. The chain guide of the older 5700 FD is longer than the new generation of FD (9000/6800/5800/9070/6870 series), which prevented the chain touching issue.

If the older 105 5700 FD is used, it does not have chain touching issue even when in the front low and rear top gear.

There is a small clearance between the FD chain guide and the chain. This clearance is available due to the longer chain guide on the older 105 5700 FD, as compared to the shorter chain guide on my Ultegra 6870 Di2 FD.

Comparing the length of the FD chain guide. 105 5700 FD on top, 105 5800 FD at the bottom. The new generation of Shimano FD (9000/6800/5800/9070/6870 series) has a chain guide that is quite a bit shorter than the previous generation, which means possible incompatibility with small wheeled bikes.

The preferred position of the FD mounting, to prevent chain touching issue. Offset behind the original mounting, and rotated to be concentric with the chainring.

Similar designs can be found on the FD adapter used by Tyrell bikes, with the FD position offset backwards by the FD adapter instead of being fixed to the seat tube.

It would be better to have a separate FD adapter, so that the FD position can be optimised, as shown here on a Tyrell frame.

Fortunately, all is not lost! With some inventiveness and a DIY spirit, I managed to move the FD to a more suitable position with a custom mount. The idea is to offset the FD rearwards, and then rotate the FD such that the chain guide is concentric with the chainring. This would put the FD in a position similar to that on a Tyrell bike, which is correctly designed for small wheeled bikes.

First, a block is needed to shift the FD rearwards. I got this FD adapter from Taobao, which is originally designed for Java folding bikes. What I need is only the silver block.

Next, a Ridea wedge type shim is required to rotate the FD on the adapter. The shim is thick at one end and thin at the other end, which will rotate the FD on the mounting. Each of this shim will rotate the FD by 4 degrees.

Part List: Spacer Block, 2 x Ridea 4 degree Shim, 1 set of Concave/Convex Washers and a M5x45mm Bolt.

The aluminium block plus two Ridea shims (8 degrees in total) will move the FD to the desired position. Due to the angle of the wedges, I needed to use the concave/convex washers from V-brake pads to allow the longer bolt to be tightened properly.

Final setup of the FD! Looks ugly with the large block visible, but this is required to put the FD in the correct position.

With the custom FD adapter parts in place, there is no more chain touching issue even when in the front low and rear top gear. Also, the chain guide is nicely concentric to the chainring. As for the shifting performance, it works surprisingly well on the workstand, even though the support bolt on the FD is not in use. The actual shifting performance will be tested once the full bike is assembled and goes for a test ride.

For this Wheelsport Fantasy mini velo bike, the FD mounting position needs to be improved, to place the FD in the position as shown above. This is important to ensure that future FD will be compatible with this bike frame, especially for newer FD designed for 11 speed systems. It can be done by either improving the position of the FD braze on mounting, or removing the mounting and providing a separate clamp on FD adapter instead.

Up till now, there have been more installation issues that I had expected. For the first issue with the cutting of the carbon spacer, the solution was obvious, which is to shorten the carbon spacer, although it was not an easy job.

As for the second issue with the interference between the bottle cage and the Di2 battery mount, it was because I decided to place the Di2 battery there. If a normal mechanical shifting setup is used, or if the battery is placed elsewhere, there would not be such an issue.

Finally, for the FD chain touching issue, it was partly due to the frame design, where the FD mounting is located at the wrong place. It is also partly caused by the FD, where the chain guide has been shortened from the previous generation, creating this interference problem that will not occur if an older FD is used.

I am glad that I managed to find a suitable solution for each of these problems, and now the assembly of this Wheelsport Fantasy Ultegra Di2 2x11 Speed mini velo can continue!

Part 5 here