As previously discussed, bullhorn bars are known for their comfortable grip positions. However, there are not many folding bikes out there with a bullhorn bar. How many can you think of? Other than the Dahon Speed Pro TT/ Vector X27 or the Tern Verge X30, the other one I can think of is the KHS F20-R. There are probably only a few others out there. Today's highlight will be converting a Vitesse P9 to a Vitesse P18-TT!
The Vitesse P9, previously upgraded from a stock Vitesse D7. About to undergo another transformation to a Vitesse P18-TT
Before upgrading the components, the bike was disassembled and fully cleaned
Bike frame after waxing with Hi Glaze 88. Clean and shiny!
First new component to go on. Ultegra 6700 Hollowtech II BB
Same 9 speed 12-28T custom SRAM cassette. After cleaning it looks brand new! Installed on the excellent PZ Racing wheelset.
New rear derailleur! Shimano 105 5600 RD, which was previously on my Boardwalk.
Shimano 105 5600 crankset, also from my Boardwalk. Major improvement from the stock D7 crankset!
One major issue I encountered with the new drivetrain was that the chainline was not ideal. Also, I was using a 9 speed chain on the 10 speed crankset. Because of this, it meant that in the small chainring and small sprocket combination, the chain will rub on the inside of the large chainring, where the ramps and spikes will catch the chain and make it shift onto the large chainring. It was not just a little chain rubbing, it was more serious as it tends to cause the front gear to shift on its own.
Although this cross-chain gear combination is not recommended, it will be prudent to make sure that even if this condition happens, it will not cause a big problem for the cyclist. To solve this, I added some spacers under the right-hand BB cup, in order to move the crankset further out. This is unusual as road cranksets usually do not need spacers. These spacers increased the chainline by about 1.5mm, which is the maximum that is possible. Any thicker and it will cause the axle protrusion on the left side to be too short to fasten on the left side crank.
The right side BB cup with a few spacers to increase the chainline
After doing this modification, the chain rubbing problem still cannot be completely solved, but at least it is not so bad. To avoid this problem, when the small chainring is being used, the 2 smallest sprockets at the rear must be avoided.
Another major modification is the addition of a front derailleur! A LitePro FD adaptor is first used to provide a mount for the FD.
Shimano Tiagra 4500 Front Derailleur for double cranksets
The drivetrain installed on the Vitesse
Bar end extensions for the bullhorn. Extends the "horn" by 20mm. Provides a firmer grip when holding the ends of the bullhorn bar!
Close up shot. Fits nicely into any handlebar.
Road shifters fitted onto the bullhorn. Also from my previous Boardwalk TT
Still can plug in your bar ends as the extension is hollow
Some clear polyurethane patches to protect the frame from cable rub. Very thin but tough.
Inline barrel adjusters for adjusting the cable tension. Not so important for the rear shifter, but essential for the front shifter.
Interrupter brake levers
Bullhorn bars mounted on the bike, cables all done up. Got to make sure there is enough slack for steering and folding the bike.
Top down view of the handlebars
Innovative front cable routing for the front brakes.
Instead of putting the Travel Agent on the brake calipers itself, I used a flexible brake noodle so that I can put the Travel Agent elsewhere. This allows the front brake cable to be routed under the frame and behind the fork, just like the stock front brake cable routing. The main reason for this arrangement is so that the handlebar can be steered to the left without the Travel Agent hitting the bottle cage in front! Another reason is to avoid stretching the front cable when folding down the handlebar.
Neat cable arrangement for the front brakes
Travel Agent mounted the usual way on the rear brakes
Clear patches placed at strategic locations to protect the paint!
Cable routing for the rear brakes
Front system all done up
Rear system all done up!
Mounting the bottle cage on the front, using the holes on the front of the frame
Not a routine fix! Some extra metal plates (from Daiso) and bolts required
Water bottle mount from a Minoura bottle cage required for this mod
Silicone strap to keep the bottle in place on bumpy terrain. Adjustable bottle cage to fit bottles of any diameter
Taking the Vitesse P18-TT out for a test ride! Feels super shiok especially when sprinting with the bullhorn bars
After wrapping the bar tape!
Ready to chiong!
View from the left
View from the right!
The Vitesse P18-TT is ready to roll! With 18 speeds and a comfortable bullhorn bar, this bike can do more than just leisure rides! It was not an easy upgrade as there were a few issues with the chainline and the cable routing. Luckily I had the experience gained from the previous upgrade to my Boardwalk TT to help me, which enabled me to foresee certain problems and solve them, and improve on certain aspects such as the front brake cable routing.
hi Steve,
ReplyDeletei got a white Dahon Vitesse P16
i am thinking of upgrading the stock crankset ... can i check with u whether ultegra 6650 SL cranks with 6700 BB can fit my bike?
thanks so much :)
got to take note of the chainring size. from what I understand, the FD mount on the frame is designed for a 55T front chainring? if you change to a compact crankset, with 50T as the max size, the FD may be located too high up to give good front shifting performance.
ReplyDeletethanks, steve ... if the new chainrings are 53T/39T (stock is 55T/44T), will it be a problem?
ReplyDeleteit should work, although the shifting performance may not be as good or you may experience chain drop.
ReplyDeleteHi Steve, how many spacers did you put on the bb and did the crankset stay secure? I am trying to install Di2 on my Vitesse P18 frame I am building. 20 speeds with 451 wheels and DA7900 caliper brakes. I now have a stronglight Helion on it now but the right chainrings are too close to the seat post tube. I was going to go DA7900 crankset and try adding spacers. How many mm do you have from the seat tube to the inner side of the small chainring? Thanks, Don , San Francisco
ReplyDeleteNot too sure what is the distance, but if you use a road Hollowtech crankset and bb, you can put a maximum of about 1.5mm spacer. Anymore and you can't tighten the left crank.
DeleteHi Steve, Are you able to post photo on how you route your left shifter cable to your FD.
ReplyDeleteYou can find more pictures on this post.
Deletehttp://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2011/11/journey-of-boardwalk-part-16-front.html
Basically, the front shifter outer casing will exit the shifter and follow the rear outer casing, all the way till the main frame clamp area.
Then, the FD outer casing will run under the BB, and back up along the rear of the seat tube. Then, it will go into the cable stopper on the FD adapter clamp.
Hi Steve, I just convert my vitesse from a 8 speed to a 10 speed. But I encounter a problem which is when I shift the rear to the biggest sprocket my front large chain ring can't hold the chain well and it keep dropping to the smaller chain ring when it comes to a particular teeth on the large chain ring. Any idea what is happening?
ReplyDeleteThats because the double crankset that you have are designed for shifting. The chainrings are designed to help shifting. If there is no FD to help guide the chain, it will tend to fall off to the smaller chainring when in the larger sprockets at the rear.
DeleteAre all the components in your drivetrain 10 speed?
You can get chainguard or the Tern chain guide to prevent this. http://www.ternbicycles.com/features/mainstay-chain-guide
Hi Steve, all my components are 10 speed and at first I did not have such problem but after a few ride and this things happen to me. Will prepare for an upgrade soon to make it 20 speed. Thanks for you help!
Delete