Thursday, April 17, 2014

How to Build an Affordable, High Performance, Lightweight Folding Bike: Part 4

This is the fourth and last part of this upgrading guide! As mentioned in Part 1 of this guide, the aim of this project is to build an Affordable, High Performance, Lightweight folding bike.

Target: < SGD 2000, 20 speeds, < 9.3 kg without pedals
Final Result: SGD 1700, 20 speeds, 8.8 kg without pedals

The target has been achieved and with a considerable margin too. Overall I would say that this project is quite successful as it has been proven that it is possible to custom assemble a bike that is better, cheaper and lighter than a stock bike.

Before reading this fourth part of the guide, I would suggest reading the first 3 parts to get the whole story.

Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 here!

As stated in the previous part of the guide, there are some changes which I would like to make to improve the ride quality and/or appearance of the bike. But before that, I will highlight some of the challenges that I faced when building this bike from scratch.

Problems encountered during bike installation:

1) When the RD hanger is installed onto the frame, the RD hanger is unable to rest flat against the frame. This slant angle means that when the RD is installed, the RD pulleys are not parallel to the cassette.

When the frame was delivered, the RD hanger was not installed, so it is not due to damage during transportation. From what I see, the problem is that the surface on the rear dropout area is not flat, which causes the RD hanger to tilt to one side when the hanger fixing bolt is tightened.

To remedy this, I had to bend the aluminium dropout to make the RD pulleys parallel to the cassette. This is quite tricky as over-bending the dropout will crack or break it.
 
RD hanger was not aligned parallel to the frame and cassette

2) FD not securely fixed to FD hanger
On the rear of the FD hanger, there is a curvature for the braze-on FD to mount onto it. However, this curvature is quite small, which means that the FD cannot be fitted nicely to the FD hanger. Under high loads, the FD can still twist to the side. To minimize this possibility, I had to tighten the bolt on the FD such that the FD is fixed really tightly to the FD hanger.

Curvature at the rear of the FD hanger and the curvature on the bracket of the FD does not match

3) Chain rubbing FD chainguide in rear lowest 3 gears
Despite adding a spacer under the right side BB to push out the crankset and the chainline, the chain will still rub on the inner wall of the chainguide when the chain is in the front-low and rear gear 1,2,3 positions. I believe this is due to the FD hanger which is welded on slightly too far out from the seat tube. Even when the low limit screw on the FD is fully loosened, the FD does not go in far enough to prevent chain touching.

Although there is some noise, there is no serious issue as the touching is quite gentle and not very rough.

4) Low clamping force on seat post by seat tube and shim
I found that to have sufficient clamping force on the seatpost, I had to turn the nut on the seat post clamp really tight, before closing the lever. If not, the QR lever will not be tight enough to clamp the seatpost securely.

I think that the seat tube inner diameter might be a little oversized, as the seatpost shim is also a little loose inside. This means that the seatpost clamp needs to flex more of the seat tube before applying clamping force onto the seatpost. Not a major issue, but just some things to take note.

Additional Changes
Now, for the additional changes that I made to the bike. Some of the changes added weight, but that is not important now as the project target has already been achieved.

To match with the red LitePro headset, I decided to get a red seatpost clamp to see if it fits with the colour scheme. There are many seatpost clamps available, but the original Dahon seatpost clamp still works the best. I found some coloured ones on Taobao, which were most likely anodised from the original silver colour.

Original Dahon seatpost clamp in red colour

Red seatpost clamp mounted on the bike

A closeup look of the seatpost clamp with the seatpost and frame

I didn't really like the red seatpost clamp, as it does not fit in with the seatpost and frame. Also, the red colour is a different shade from that of the LitePro headset. Therefore I decided to change the clamp back to the original black coloured clamp.

The next change that I did was to change out the tires. The previous Panaracer Minits Lite are light and fast rolling, but I don't feel comfortable using them. When riding, there is a "floating" feeling which I don't like. Perhaps this is how it feels riding on really slim tires? I decided to change to the familiar Schwalbe Kojak tires which I have been using on my Dahon Boardwalk for a long time.

Schwalbe Kojak 35-406 tires, folding bead

After changing the tires to Kojaks, the ride feels more comfortable and familiar. There is less of the "floating" feel when riding the bike. Maybe I am not used to riding such a lightweight bike!

Another bling item which I tried out was this red reflector strips that clip onto the spokes on the wheels. Once again, I tried red colour to see if the colour matches the accent on the bike.

Red coloured reflective spoke clips

Kojak tires with red reflective spoke clips on the rear wheel

Front wheel with Kojak tires and red reflective spoke clips

Again, the red coloured spoke clips didn't match with the bike image. The red is too bright and glaring, which I didn't like. Therefore I removed all the reflective spoke clips.

The next item which I put on were some red valve caps. Nothing special here, just a little dash of red to complement the bike.

Red Presta valve caps

Red valve caps installed

These valve caps will remain on the bike as it can fit in with the overall image. Besides red valve caps, I also got some red inner caps for the ends of the brake and shifter cables. These inner caps look quite nice, without being overwhelming.

Red inner cap on the end of the rear derailleur shifter cable

Red inner cap on the end of the brake cable

The last addition to the bike would be some 3M protective stickers. This is really important and useful to prevent scratches to your bike frame. They work really well, as they stick on really securely and don't peel off easily.

3M frame protective stickers from Taobao. Same as the original stickers found on Dahon / Tern frames.

Stick one on the frame here, so that the inner cap of the FD shifter cable does not scratch the frame during shifting.

Stick one here to prevent the handlepost from touching the main tube of the frame when the handlepost is folded down


Stick one here to prevent the brake and shifter outer casings from rubbing against the frame

And that is all for the additions! Overall, the changes I made were to add red valve caps, red cable inner caps, additional frame stickers and changed the tires to Schwalbe Kojaks.

The 406 sized, folding bead Kojaks weighs 230 grams each, which is 60 grams heavier than the Panaracer Minits Lite. A slight weight increase of 120 grams overall.

Lastly, some more pictures of the new bike!

Folding is very easy compared to the Dahon Boardwalk, as the handlebar/handlepost can be kept easily between the wheels.

Compact sized folding, just like the other Dahon / Tern folding bikes

Cable routing is fine even when folded. There is sufficient slack in the cables for folding / unfolding the bike

Final specification of the Dahon MuEX, after changing out some parts, such as the tires.

Overall picture of the completed bike! It is now fully ready to be used!

89 comments:

  1. Hi,

    Excellent pro diy there! Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  2. hi
    you know a website where I can order an original dahon clamp handlebar
    black color for my mu uno?
    http://www.urbanvelocity.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/900x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/_/q/_q8w3828.jpg
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi,
    Can you share which LBS you bought the RD hanger?

    thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This RD hanger came with the frame. If you need, you may be able to get it from mybikeshop.

      Delete
  4. Hi Steve,
    I have the same frame as you and is in the midst of converting it to drop bars and brifters. I realised from your posts that V-brakes are not ideal (saved me money there). I was about to drop some money on a pair of sram caliper brakes when again your posts pointed out that normal road calipers wouldnt work (some more money saved there, coffee on me sometime). I noticed the mounting hole at the fork as well as the rear, is there any caliper brakes that would work with this frame?

    Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You will need the Tektro R559 extra long reach brake calipers. And you may also need the Aican brake pad extender, as the reach might still be slightly too short.
      http://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2012/05/caliper-brakes-and-stem-for-vitesse-p18.html

      Delete
  5. Would changing from 406 to 451 wheelset allow me to use normal road calipers?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes it would. Downside is that tire choices in 451 size is more limited.

      Delete
    2. Also, you can't fit fenders with 451 wheels, it may not matter to you if you don't plan to anyway.

      Delete
    3. I may very well go with this option. Thanks alot steve! :)

      Delete
    4. I just came across this device after doing a search on eiosix you mentioned. The front would work flawlessly without fenders but im not sure about the rear, refer to the last 2 pictures pictures of this link.

      http://h5.m.taobao.com/awp/core/detail.htm?id=20997008402&spm=a230r.1.0.0.dvXCTa&id=20997008402

      I also saw this little device but wonder if itll work as rear brake adaptor.

      http://h5.m.taobao.com/awp/core/detail.htm?id=36603382078&spm=a230r.1.14.70.dvXCTa&id=36603382078


      Delete
    5. Yes they will both work. You are very resourceful!

      I am using the front adaptor in the first link that you posted on my Boardwalk. This enabled me to use a standard Ultegra road caliper brake for my front wheel. I could still use a front fender but it needs to be modified.
      http://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2013/09/journey-of-boardwalk-part-31-elosix.html
      http://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2013/09/journey-of-boardwalk-part-32-mini-front.html

      As for the rear, the item posted in your second link will work. I have also used it before on another bike. However, I am not sure if it will extend the reach of the rear brake long enough to use a standard road caliper.
      http://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2013/09/elosix-rear-caliper-brake-adaptor-for.html

      Delete
  6. Thats sexy.... I like your blog.... bookmarked... thanks.....
    I owned a cheap folding bike but it is 15 kg..... very heavy and not steady (headtube)....
    I am riding a road bike now, it is amusing you put the road bike components on a folding bike.
    You make me want to have one......

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hi Steve. Amazing project. So tempted to do this. Excellent info throughout! Ps do you post on BikeForums? If so what's your username? Many thanks, Atma (UK).

    ReplyDelete
  8. Considering my next foldie, narrowed down to a few options, 2 in each category. My considerations mainly are (in order of importance):
    1. Cost
    2. Weight/specs
    3. Folding size/mechanism/portability

    In the higher end range, considering:
    - Vector X27h (2nd hand $1800)
    - Pacific Reach Racing (new $2499, 2nd hand 2-yr-old $1500)

    Lower end range, considering:
    - Tonino Lamborghini Concetto (new $788)
    - Java Fit 16S (new $700)

    Any thoughts or feedback on the above few listed options?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If the main concern is cost, then you should look at only the lower end bikes. Both the Lambo and the Java have similar component specs, but the appearance is very different. Try out each of them to see which one you prefer.

      Delete
    2. Thanks for your reply, guess cost is a factor, but also the folding mechanism and overall weight. Deciding whether it's worth the extra $1k for the components. Throwing one more higher end bike in the mix, 2 guys selling on Togo their Dahon Mu Ex (modified), roughly about $1.7k, full Ultegra, 451 rims, etc. Weight 8.7kg without pedals. :) Any thoughts on the higher end ones I mentioned?

      Delete
    3. Just get the bikes on Togoparts. It is a very good price for the high end components.

      Delete
    4. Hi Steve, which bikes did you mean to get on Togo?

      Delete
    5. The bikes that you said you saw on Togoparts

      Delete
  9. I am very keen in building a foldable bike similar to yours. Hope you can guide me along the way if I encounter problem.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Welcome. There is a lot of info on this blog, you should be able to find most answers here. If not, feel free to contact me.

      Delete
  10. Hello,

    Is there a way to fit a wheel with a 100mm front hub to the MUEX frame while keeping the cost down?

    TQ

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You will need to change the fork, which is not cheap, and hard to find the exact compatible one for the Muex frame. Easier to fit the wheel to the frame.

      Delete
  11. Hi, is it possible to install 1x 11 speed Ultegra on this MU EX frame?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is possible, but you will need a compatible 11 speed rear hub. The other components can be mounted just like 10 speed components.

      Delete
  12. Hi Steve. Have found lot of useful information from your blog. Thank you.
    I have purchase a Dahon Horize. Thinking of upgrading it for performance and aesthetic.
    Have purchase some parts from Taobao which i suppose i can install myself.
    For Crank set and BB, do you require and special tools? Can it be install by a newbee?
    I have seen lot of high end bike with frame design like the MU EX. Can the Horize frame be consider good? Is it worth performing upgrade?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You will need special BB tools to remove the current BB + crankset and tools to install the new BB and crankset. If you want to DIY, then you have to invest in the tools for long term use. If only changing it one time, then it is easier to get the bike shop to do it. Instructions can be found online.
      The Horize frame is considered decent. Whether it is worth upgrading or not is up to you. For me, I think any bike that has good folding joints can be upgraded. With the exception of the entry level C7, all others should be fine.

      Delete
  13. Hi Steve, I am almost done with my MuEx project based on your blog. I got one problem that is similar from yours that the FD is not fitting to the MuEx frame. I go the hard way that is grinding the FD mounting area(Ultegra 6700) smaller to fit in nicely to the frame bracket. Wala...however, the chainline is still rubbing the inner plate of the FD when in the top 3 lowest rear gears. Question is where did you buy the BB spacer from? and I am using the Dura ace 9000 BB, did you have notice there will not be enough threads for the left crank if going to push the crank to the right side? many thanks if you can enlighten.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For me, the chain will also run the inner plate of the FD when in the lower 2 or 3 gears. Can't really push out the right side BB too much as there will not be enough spindle length to fix on the left side crank arm.

      The BB spacer is from Taobao I think. Can't use thick ones, I think can use 1.5mm max.

      The BB does not really affect the threading of the left crank. The BB design is similar to older ones, except for the bearing size. That is why we can't really put a thick spacer on the right side as there will be insufficient thread for the left crank cap to be tightened.

      Delete
  14. Hi Steve,

    I having few problem about the Dahon MUEX frame that bought from taobao.
    1. The FD hanger is not in the correct position. I send the bicycle to shop, they say it not in the correct position, So the FD will not work correctly. Do you encounter this issue? how you able to fix it? The Mechanic ask me to go and remove the Hanger and get a new FD hanger.

    2. The folding part is very hard. Very hard to fold the frame. Do you encounter this issue? Any fix?

    Thank you,
    Adrian.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. How is the FD hanger in the wrong position? You can compare it with the FD hanger position on my MuEX frame. Front shifting is fine on my bike.

      The folding joint is a bit stiff at the start. You can try dripping some lube into the joints, and keep opening and closing the frame to loosen it a bit. In any case, a stiff joint is better than having a loose joint.

      Delete
    2. Hi Steve,

      1. The FD hanger is a bit out of the position. After install the FD, the FD is not parallel with the frame, it more go inward to the frame on the end of the FD. I use spanner to twist the FD hanger to make the FD parallel with frame. The risk is the hanger may crack or the wielded join may crack. After i twist it, i can change all the gear smoothly without any rubbing.

      2. For the folding join, i use lube and it work greatly.

      3. After finish, the Bike unable to fold 100%, block by the handle bar. The body come with Fnhon T-shaped handlepost, so i need to add Litepro Double Extension Stem before i can install the handlebar, with the double extension stem, it will prevent the folding, end up the magnetix clip unable to touch each other.

      4. The bike achieve 8.72KG including pedals. Using Litepro kinetic wheelset.

      Delete
    3. 1 & 2) Good to hear that it works!
      3) It is always tricky to set the height of the handlebar to enable proper folding. I myself changed from the Fnhon 31.5cm QR handlepost to the Fnhon 31.5cm Dual Bolt handlepost, as the QR lever was hitting the frame during folding.
      4) Very light weight! Mine is 9.3kg including the A530 pedals. What components are you using that enables this light weight?

      Delete
  15. How is the performance of wheelsport sunny as compared to wheelsport smart and other brand such as litepro/machete??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I personally feel that the Wheelsport Sunny and Smart are similar. From what I see, the Smart has a taller rim profile of 30mm, compared to the 24mm of the Sunny. The hubs should be similar.

      Not sure about LitePro wheel or Machete wheels as I have not used them before. What I do know is that Machete wheels are heavier due to the high profile rims.

      Delete
  16. Hi Steve, i am very excited after reading your posts and considering to upgrade my Tern Verge P20. Can you suggest the possible upgrades on P20. thx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There are so many things that can be upgraded on the P20. It is a good frame and is already 2x10 speed ready.

      I would upgrade the wheelsets to maybe the Wheelsport wheelset for lighter weight and better rolling. The crankset + BB would be upgraded to a nice Hollowtech II road crankset.

      The shifters, RD and FD would be upgraded to a road groupset. Example would be what I used on my Dahon MuEX frame.

      Other components are quite OK and don't need to be upgraded (for now anyway).

      Delete
    2. Can I upgrade to the new 2x11 speed? Do I need to change the whole groupset? Is the Wheelsprt wheel hub comparable to the 11 spead cassette?

      Delete
    3. 2x11 speed is possible. The newer wheelsport rear hubs are 11 speed compatible. All the drivetrain and shifting components need to be changed to 11 speed.

      However the 11 speed flat handlebars shifters are not available in the market yet, so you will need to change to a drop bar to use the 11 speed road shifters.

      Delete
    4. In this case, can I use MTB shifter? ie XT shifter + Ultegral FD/RD

      Delete
    5. The shifting will not work properly. Use all road or all MTB components.

      Delete
  17. Hi, thanks for this very usefull diy :)

    I'm looking to a replacement folding bike for my broken brompton (main frame in 2 parts ) and wanting a faster bike with highter gear range and lighter...

    I have only find the tern verge X30h with 28-121 gear inches with sram dual drive hub.

    Do you know the gear range of your bike ? or the maximum range that could be achieve with 20" wheels ?

    Sorry for my terrible english ! :p

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. With a 53/39T crankset and a 11-28T cassette, the gear range of this bike is 28 to 96 gear inches. If you want a higher gear range you will need larger chainrings.

      Delete
  18. Ok that's match the brompton gear range, so i should do some maths :)

    ReplyDelete
  19. Hi Steve,
    I am new to folding bike and prefer only Single Speed (dislike cables and derailleur). I love the simplicity of my Dahon Speed Uno but I find it too slow. I can't find any LBS in Singapore that sell similar Uno/Duo model.

    I need a bit more speed without all those cables, gears.
    Probably I will change tire to kojak? Upgrade to lighter components etc.

    Or is it better to use MuEx frame and put SRAM A2 (with coaster brake) on it?
    Thanks and appreciate your advice.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Tern Verge Duo would be what you need, but it might be out of stock currently.

      If you want to use the Sram Auto 2 hub gear with coaster brakes, there are a few frame requirements.

      1) Need horizontal dropout for chain tension adjustment.
      2) Need mounting point on frame for the arm of the coaster brake.
      3) Suitable dropout width to match the hub width.

      The Mu Ex frame does not meet these requirements, so it can't be used. In fact none of the Dahon or Tern frames can be used, except for those dedicated single speed frames such as Uno frames.

      Delete
  20. Wow that's fast. Appreciate your help. I contacted mbs n speedmatrix, they don't carry uno/duo anymore.
    I will be in Taipei 2 weeks later. Will see if i can find any uno or duo there.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Steve, would like to know how do you determine the chain length? For this case, with your recommended RD, crank and chain. Do we need to cut the chain and what would be the length of the chain to be cut? Would appreciate your advice?

      Delete
    2. The chain will definitely need to be cut, it is almost always too long. You can Google and find out how to measure the chain length. I also don't know the chain length unless I go and count link by link.

      Delete
  21. Hi Steve
    I am thinking of upgrading my muP9 to full Shimano 105 groupset and bullhorn handle bar. What gear ration would you suggest and is the 105 brake caliper suitable for this frame?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For the MuP9 frame, you can use standard 105 brake calipers if you change to 451 sized wheels. Else, you will need to get the long reach Tektro R559 brake calipers to use with 406 sized wheels.

      Upgrading to Shimano 105 groupset (10 or 11 speed?) is fine. Some 11 speed components may not be compatible.

      1) FD arm of 11 speed FD is long and may hit the frame.
      2) If your rear hub is not 11 speed compatible, you can only upgrade to 10 speeds.

      I am assuming you are upgrading the MuP9 with the stock wheelset, and thus you can only change to 10 speed components.

      For bullhorn bars, I recommend using external routing shifters, such as Tiagra ST-4600 with shifter cables that exit from the side. If you use internal routing shifters, the shifting performance will not be ideal as there is a lot of friction due to the sharp cable routing around the bullhorn bar area.

      Lastly, for gear ratio, a front 53/39T crankset paired with a 11-28T cassette will suit most people.

      Delete
  22. You got a nice bike there. Recently bought a Dahon Horize 2015. Decent and suitable for novice like me.

    drop by my blog too
    http://www.lifetechreview.com/lifestyle/dahon-horize-2015/

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hello Steve,

    Your blog post inspired me to finally start on my childhood dream; which is to build my own bike.

    However what's stopping me is the issues with the RD and FD, I am afraid if I tweak the dropout I might damage it and that if I tweak the FD axle I might damage the frame.

    What do you suggest? My email is shauntanyk@yahoo.com.sg

    Hope to hear from you soon
    Shaun

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The rd and fd issues are not major issues, so i think it should be fine. If there are any issues you can always let me know and i can advise you.

      Delete
    2. Thanks a lot for the prompt reply Steve!

      I will start then! :)

      Do you always check your blog comments as a means of communication or would you prefer other forms of communication?

      Delete
    3. Yes i will always get an email alert when there are new comments. Do take note that all comments are subject to my approval before being published, so it will not appear on the page immediately.

      Delete
    4. Hi Steve,

      May I know if this will fit the Dahon Muex frame?

      http://www.cyclingexpress.com/en/productdia/3522/shimano-ultegra-6800-groupset.html#.VanLM_kYHZU

      And if it's worth getting.

      Shaun

      Delete
    5. This is a 11 speed groupset, and you will need to get a 11 speed compatible rear hub.

      Assuming you get an 11 speed rear hub, everything will fit except the brake calipers. The brake calipers will only fit if you use 451 wheels, instead of the smaller 406 wheels.

      Delete
    6. If I were to use the 406 wheels and have no problems with the brake calipers, then I should go for the Ultegra 6700 10 speed right?

      Delete
    7. Depends on what rear hub you have. 10 or 11 speed are both OK.

      Delete
  24. Roger :)

    I just purchased the Frame Set (Complete), compression ring and magnetix from taobao. Looking forward already :)

    ReplyDelete
  25. Hi Steve,

    Great blog and info! I am planning to get my first foldie and shorlisted the Dahon Vigor P9 or Dahon Mu SL 10. Do you think it is more worth it to upgrade the Vigor P9 or get a stock Dahon Mu SL 10? Am I able to fit a Shimano Ultegra set straight into the Vigor P9? Only planning on using it at 10 spd. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would say go for the frame design that you like. Components can be upgraded easily.

      Delete
  26. hi steve,
    thank you for posting this excellent blog on folding bike!
    Your insights on the parts are invaluable.
    keep up the good work.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Hi Steve, could I have the link to the 3M protective stickers? thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. search for 3m犀牛皮保护贴 on Taobao

      Delete
    2. Hi Steve, I'm using the same frame as you and I'm also experiencing some chainrub on the inner cage of the FD when the chain is on the lowest gear (Smallest front, biggest back). What options do I have with regards to eliminating the chainrub?

      Delete
    3. You can try putting a 2mm shim under the right side bb adapter to push out the crankset a bit. Other than that, not much you can do.

      Delete
    4. 2mm is the maximum right?
      Is this the right type of spacer? https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.54.q7g9IG&id=523077684044&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail


      What about adding spacers on the rear hub to shift the chainline? I'm using the wheelsport smart 1.0 which should be able to take 11 speed cassette but I'm using 10 speed cassette. Would that be advisable? Btw, what is the maximum amount of spacers I can add to the rear hub?

      Delete
    5. Yes it seems that this spacer can fit on both the BB and the freehub body. From my experience, 2mm is the max you can add on the right side BB adapter. Any more and it will not be possible to tighten the left side crank arm fixing bolt.

      If you are using 10 speed cassette on the 11 speed freehub body, it will already have a 1.85mm cassette spacer under the cassette. Not possible to add any more spacers, or the lockring cannot be tightened onto the freehub body.

      Delete
    6. Although the plastic crank arm fixing bolt on the 5800 crankset is longer, the spindle is the same length. This means that even if you increase the spacer thickness, and the bolt can reach the threads in the spindle, the clamping length of the left crank arm on the spindle will be reduced. This is not good as there will be a lot of stress on the small clamped portion.

      Delete
  28. Hi Steve, wow that was really amazing project and it triggers me to build also my very first folding bike. I would like to start from Tern Verge P9 frame set (red/black color) and I will follow exactly all the components that you have installed. My question is since Im going use different frame set, will there be any issue in compatibility or sizes of components?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. All of them should fit. If your Tern frame comes with the Tern handlepost, it will be fine. The Tern frame cannot use the Fnhon handlepost unless the fork is modified.

      Delete
  29. Hi Steve,

    Noted that the Dahon Mu Ex folds inwards...will there be a problem if I'm going for a bullhorn setup? Or should I be getting another FNHon stem that folds outward instead?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If the handlepost folds inwards, you can try folding the handlepost in this order. http://handsonbike.blogspot.sg/2011/07/new-way-of-folding-your-dahon-bike.html

      No matter inward or outward folding, it will not fold very compactly as the handlebar is rather large in size.

      Delete
  30. Hi Steve I owned Tern X20(2015 model)
    I would like to change the shorter handle post of 290mm
    Also could advise me if having shorter handle post will be good with riser handlebar??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not sure why you want to use a riser handlebar? A flat handlebar is neater, and can mount more accessories on the handlebar. No point using a short handlepost, and adding back the height with a riser handlebar.

      Delete
  31. Hi Steve, I would like to buy a lambo concertto (quoted $838) with a view that it is upgradable in the near future. My budget is below 1k. Can you please advise if this model is ok or suggest other models. Many tks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This bike is quite upgradeable, as it uses mainly standard components. Should be a good choice. Just note that the folded size is not as compact as a Dahon or Tern due to the taller seat tube.

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  32. Hi Steve can i do this kind of upgrade to dahon mu d8? Thanks

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    1. Yes no problem. Only difference is that you need to get a fd adaptor for the Mu bike.

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  33. Hi Steve, just got a ternx20, any advise to make it lighter or upgrade it?

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    1. Not much you can do, since it is already the top level bike. You can probably change to lighter weight saddle or handlebar.

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  34. Hi,

    Thanks for the blog. If you want to align the RD hanger properly you could get this tool

    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment#article-section-2

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  35. hi, Steve, i would like to start a project too. with the same frame but i don't think i need 20 speed. 10 speed will do - like tern verge x10. can i check which components will be different from yours?
    mind if i contact u via mail with my list of parts and see if i'm getting them right? i basically know very little about bike parts. my last bike was a GT mountain bike 15 years ago.

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    1. If going for just 10 speeds, which is front single chainring, you can drop the front derailleur, left shifter and also change the chainring. Get a single speed specific chainring, such as a narrow wide chainring which will help prevent chain drop.
      You can just post your list of parts here and I will take a look.

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