Fnhon DB11: Assembly Completed

The Fnhon DB11 disc brake folding bike is finally completed! This project was started because I didn't want to ride rim brake bikes any more, which is why I decided to change my Dahon MuEX which uses V-brakes.

With a new disc brake compatible frameset, disc brake compatible wheels and a new hydraulic disc brake system, this new folding bike is going to be a nice upgrade over the previous one. Without further delay, let's take a detailed look at all the new components on this Fnhon DB11.

This is Part 2 of the assembly process, to continue from Part 1 where it was started.

Handlebar setup, with new hydraulic brake levers, but the same old Ergon GP1 grips.

Neat cable routing, with only 2 hydraulic hoses visible at the front of the bike.

However, I noticed that the handlepost is tilted to one side. As you can see from the picture below, when the front wheel is vertical, the top of handlepost is offset to the right side due to it not being straight enough. The whole handlebar is thus slightly slanted to the side, with the right side being slightly lower than the left side.

It is quite annoying, but it can only be solved by changing out the whole handlepost. I might do that later on, but it is not urgent. Riding is still OK.

Handlepost is visibly tilted to the right side, causing the handlebar to be tilted and offset towards the right side.

I have another bike with a flat handlebar Di2 setup, and that is the Bike Friday Haul-A-Day cargo bike. It is almost the same as the Dahon MuEX setup, with a Firebolt Di2 shifting switch and Di2 Digital Display. Let's do a comparison between these two handlebar setups.

Bike Friday handlebar in the foreground, and Fnhon DB11 handlebar just behind it. The Fnhon DB11 handlebar is located just a bit higher up.

Both are Di2 systems, but the brake lever, shifting switch and Di2 display are of different models.

Toseek carbon saddle mounted to the Litepro seat post.

Drivetrain mostly transferred over from the Dahon MuEX, except for the Dura-Ace Di2 rear derailleur. Chain ring bolts changed from red to black to match this bike.

Junction B of the Di2 system is located on the seat tube, hidden behind the chain ring.

For me, this 48T Wolf Tooth chain ring is actually over sized, as it was meant to be used with the smaller 406 wheels on the Dahon MuEX. On this new Fnhon DB11 bike with larger 451 wheels, the gearing will increase by roughly 10%.

Gear Range with 11-32T cassette and 48T chain ring:

Dahon MuEX with 406 wheels: 30 - 87 gear inches

Fnhon DB11 with 451 wheels: 33 - 96 gear inches

I don't need such high gearing on this folding bike, as I am unlikely to ride so fast. If I want to revert to the previous gearing, I will need to use a smaller 44T chain ring on this bike with 451 wheels. However, Wolf Tooth chain rings are quite expensive, and so I will just use what I have for now.

Actual chain weight, after being cut to the correct length for this bike. This is a new HG701 11 speed chain.

Lightweight titanium quick release axles are used to save a bit of weight. Note the multiple cable ties needed to route the Di2 wire neatly from the frame to the rear derailleur.

Dura-Ace Di2 RD-R9150 rear derailleur!

Fnhon DB11 folded. The folding method is neat and relatively compact, with no parts sticking out oddly like on some folding bikes.

Unfortunately, I have now encountered a problem, after folding the bike. The front metal plate and rear magnet are unable to stick to each other as they are not aligned properly.

The front metal plate (adjustable) and rear magnet cannot stick to each other as they are not aligned.

The adjustment range is insufficient to let the magnet stick to the metal plate. Probably a frame design error.

Easiest way is to extend the metal plate, by using a steel bracket that is long enough to reach the magnet. Same idea that I used 10 years ago, to install the Magnetix system on the Dahon Eco 2.

View of the front brake caliper and 160 mm disc rotor, together with the DIY metal plate.

View of the rear brake caliper and 140 mm disc rotor.

The size difference between the rotors can be seen when they are put side by side.

The Magnetix system now works, with the longer metal plate. Problem solved!

Fnhon DB11 folded.

With the handlebar folded in between the wheels, the folded package is smaller.

Fnhon DB11 disc brake folding bike completed! Note the various 3M rubber pads stuck on the frame to prevent rubbing between the parts when folded.

Nothing colourful here, with a black-on-black colour scheme.

Here is the full part list with the weight of the individual components. Don't ask me how much it costs as it will vary greatly depending on where you buy them from.

Outdoor picture of the Fnhon DB11

Looks really nice!

I am really pleased with how this project turned out, as the bike looks beautiful. I used some high end and expensive components, such as the XTR brake levers and calipers, and also Dura-Ace Di2 rear derailleur. However, these can easily be substituted for more affordable components, or even a mechanical 1x11 speed drivetrain.

The brakes are powerful, as expected from XTR brake components and small wheels. One finger braking is enough, which makes it really effortless to control the bike. Due to the relatively narrow tires and small wheels, the steering is a bit sensitive, compared to using the wider Kojak tires. It is not an issue as I am used to riding small wheeled bikes with more sensitive steering.

Probably the only downside to this new bike, compared to the Dahon MuEX, is the additional weight, mainly due to the heavier frame and wheels, plus the added weight of the hydraulic disc brake system. The Dahon MuEX weighed 8.4 kg without pedals, while this Fnhon DB11 weighs 8.9 kg without pedals as shown above on the part list. It is an addition of 0.5 kg that is quite a big amount, despite the weight reduction efforts of using a lighter saddle, handlebar, brake components, etc.

If you want to build a lightweight folding bike, a disc brake version will not work. However, if you are willing to add a bit of weight to have a much better braking performance, disc brakes will work really well. It is not necessary, but I really prefer to use hydraulic disc brakes, since almost all my other bikes are already using them, except for the Dahon MuSP.